I’m trying to make the most of any free time I have. This means reacquainting myself with some favourite parts of Cornwall, and exploring those I’ve no memory of ever visiting. Cadgwith and Coverack have been on the list for some time. Given that they’re quite close together, I decided to visit them on the same day. On another day I would’ve run from Cadgwith to Coverack on the coast path. That little adventure will have to wait for another time. I took this opportunity to take my dad’s old Zenit SLR camera with me too so this was officially my first attempt at shooting on 35mm.
First Stop, Cadgwith
When I see photos and paintings of Cadgwith, I usually do a double take. From certain positions it reminds me of Portloe on the Roseland Peninsula. It maybe of a similar size and just as quiet in the slower winter months but judging by the number of fishing boats on Cadgwith Cove, there’s clearly a bit more action going on. Not surprising, fishing became the main occupation for Cadgwith locals hundreds of years ago, so there’s something quite special knowing it’s still happening today. Much like Portloe, it has a feeling of a place where time has stood still. I can’t imagine much has changed in Cadgwith over the years. It’s just as it should be.
Don’t get be wrong, Cadgwith is a sleepy Cornish village but there are a few outlets. There’s the Old Cellars restaurant and Cadgwith Cove Crab (yum!). Above Cadgwith Crab is the Crows Nest Gallery, crammed full of art and small household accessories. In fact, having now experienced Cadgwith for myself, I can see why so many artists are compelled to paint its authentic Cornish beauty. For me, today wasn’t about painting. Instead I took as many photos as possible, hoping that I had the settings right on my camera.
Cadgwith has 2 coves, one being considerably larger than the other. Todden, which you can walk on, is a small outcrop separates the two coves. The main cove, Cadgwith Cove, is the resting place for the local fishing boats, offering pops of colour against the slate grey cliffs and old, rustic buildings. The smaller cove is easily reached too but I can’t imagine there’s much space at high tide!
On To Coverack
If you don’t know Cadgwith or Coverack, the latter is the larger of the two. On the coast path I would guess they’re about 4 (strenuous) miles apart. I remember seeing Coverack in the news in 2017. It was battered by some pretty bad weather and flash floods. Whatever the damage, Coverack now looks much restored, showcasing cute thatched cottages with vibrant coloured doors, and a fine harbour.
The seafront is quite long for such a small place, offering a little shop and a handful of places to eat. The harbour is impressive too; a resting place for plenty of fishing boats. Basically carry on walking through the village and turn left, you can’t miss it. It’s unsurprising to know that the harbour is Coverack’s main attraction. What I didn’t know is there’s been many shipwrecks over the decades on nearby rocks, called the Manacies. So if you fancy a diving trip, I guess this would be the place to head for.
It was when I reached Coverack’s harbour that the rain started to fall. I’d also come to the end of my film. Packing my cameras away, I wished I could’ve stayed longer.
I look forward to returning again, with my running kit or more film. Who knows, maybe both.